Toy Bi-Plane: The Beginning

I decided to make this project from ash. I have not yet worked with this wood and was wondering what it would be like. Also it is more affordable where I live, so it could be a good option in the future. I bought a piece 2" X 5" @ 24" long.

Ash is heavy and hard. Not as hard as purple heart - probably similar to maple. It cuts well and takes a blade great. I have enjoyed working it by hand and find it power sands well - with a fair resistance to burning. As an added plus, it has a great aroma and a distinct grain which is much darker that the body of the wood. It would make a nice figured wood for furniture. over all, I like ash so far. And at half the price of maple, well worth the price.


I started by ripping the piece to thickness and squaring it up. Again I had the same problem with my jointer - where it was throwing the piece out of square even though the fence is at 90degrees. I tried flipping the board which only created a cove like effect. I decided to hand plane it to square. I marked out the square with a ruler and pencil. I then planed to the line on each edge. I finished with the centre. It took very little time (certainly more than a power jointer) and appreciated the control. Over all, without more insight into what is wrong with power jointing, I will stick to hand planing.

I decided to make the cockpit next. This required two circular cuts, one along the length and one down the middle. I realized I needed Forsner bits to really make these cuts. I went down to our local Canadian Tire store (I should own shares), and looked for A bit. The size that I needed was only available in the full kit. One hundred dollars later I was set. *Sigh*

I marked out the location to make my circular cuts and set up my drill press. I then discovered the power needed to drive a Forsner bit far exceeded the power of my little drill press. So I packed up and went off to Len's piece of workshop heaven. Len is in Arizona right now but had said I could use his shop if I needed and left me a key. He only asked that I check in every once in a while. After shoveling off his steps and checking the heat, I set out to make some holes. I decided to plunge first. This went off without a hitch. High power, low speed and I had a nice clean flat bottomed hole. Next came the cross cut arch.

I clamped a sacrificial piece to the top of the fuselage, marked out my hole and went to work. The result was a nicely controlled arch for the cockpit. I then made a seat for inside the cockpit (the circular plunge hole I made initially). The hole was 1 5/8th. I found a same size circle maker in Len's shop. Since my sacrificial board was cut off from the fuselage, I used it and plunged the circle maker an inch deep. That done it was off to the band saw to cut the circle off. With this I packed up and went back to my shop. Thanks Len and safe travels...

Back in my shop it was now time to make the cut outs for the tail wing and engine block. I used a router and finished it up with a little chiseling and a touch with my block plane/cabinet scraper. Next, the fuselage calls for a 26degree angle down the length of the fuselage. Cut on both sides, it makes the top of the fuselage look like a peeked roof. I use my table saw and my new favorite tool, a tilt box to set the exact right angle. Riped it through, touched it with my block plane and cabinet scraper. Done. Slick...

Finally I needed to shape the bottom of the fuselage. I traced the angles on the design and transferred it onto the fuselage. Then, using my band saw, I cut away the waist. Now I turned to my power sander. Learning from my last project, I have found my power sander great for shaping from a rough cut. Ten minutes later, the final shape was formed and smooth. Glue in the chair and taper the back a bit. Time to go show Judy.

Wooden Toy Bi-Plane

My next project is a bi-plane for my nephew. I bought the design at LeeValley . I have reviewed the plans at great length. I think it should be fairly straight forward except for the undercarriage bi-wing joint, where the lower wing attaches to the fuselage. That will be a challenge. Lets see how it goes!

Wooden Plane Post Mortem

It has been 24 hours since I finished and I want to reflect on the project. I am very pleased with the performance of this plane. It cuts well (with a 30degree angle), is light and comfortable to hold. I love the look of it too. Nothing like a custom tool for a shop. And the woods are beautiful. I also learned a lot from this project, as documented below.

If I were to do this again, I would use Purple Heart as the sole or use a solid piece. It is very hard and can splinter easily but it hold its shape well and look amazing. Further, at the 5 dollar a board foot range it is now listed among the affordable hard woods. AlsoI have found that over sizing the project is a good idea. I was lucky on this project that squaring the bottom did not make my throat too big. It was very close.

The big question is whether I will make another or not. The author does have a book an various planes and how to make them. It is tempting. However, the cost of the blade from LeeValley was almost 60 dollars. They also sell hand made planes of various dimensions for less then that (with the blade). The cost of labour and materials over bragging rights and flexibility will need to be considered.

Overall it was a very satisfying project. I would rate it as a moderately hard project. you need some woodworking skills and know how, but it does not require expert knowledge to complete. Give yourself a solid weekend to make one. And if you do,

Keep the saw dust flying.
Marcus

Wooden Smoothing Plane - Finished

I've finished the smoothing plane today. I started by gluing and shaping the piece of maple missing because of my first mistake. This was shaped using a 7" slope. I like the feel of this as I push the plane.

I also shaped the end to fit the palm of my hand. I took it over the Lens shop to try using his spoke shave. After it appeared that the shaver was only burnish the hard purple heart wood, we decided to use the table sander to shape it. Purple heart burns VERY easily, but with almost no down pressure it can be machine sanded. In this way we finished the 7" curve across the top and the 2" curves across the back. I took a bit of the edge off with a coping saw and sanded again to create a ball like grip at the back.

Finally I finished it with one coat of Tung Oil. This is were purple heart shines. It finishes to a deep reddy purple - absolutely beautiful wood. I then sharpened the blade and set it. I pulled out a piece of Canary Wood I had left over from another project. The shavings came off in nice thin papery ribbons. Success. This will be a great addition to my work shop and a point of pride when I show off my tools.

Wooden Smoothing Plane - My second BIG mistake

I got the plane glued up. As you can see to the right, the basic shape was taking form. My first big mistake is still visible here but I plan to fix that later. Now is the time to square up the bottom to the sides. Not a big deal, just run it over the jointer and done... move on.


It was a super cold day when I was working on this. I remember I ha to wear gloves when I touched the jointer fence - it felt like my hand was burning - in a heated shed! I made sure my jointer was dead on 90 degrees and went for it. It did not work. I don't know what I am doing wrong but this is the result

It is hard to tell, but if it is squared up there should be no light coming through the square and wood. WTF! Not only was it not square, the more I tried the more out of square it became. By this point I had shaved off over 1/2" and was getting a crowning effect.

After trying to use my sanding table and adjusting my jointer table again and again. I finally broke down and did it by hand. Again it saved the day. With my block plane I was able to get it to square. A quick pass with my jointer and sanding table to smooth out the blade marks and i was off and running again.

Phew...

Wooden Smoothing Plane - My first big problem

I love it when articles explain things that are profoundly challenging in blase terms. I was once making a picture frame and the article read "Create a profile with a 7 degree slope. Use this profile to route your pegs". So I thought - easy enough. Until I had to make the 7 degree profile. Now how should I do that? I puzzled and puzzled until Len suggested I use a block plane. Eureka! However, as one who (at that time) had never used a block plane, how was I to know? I am sure the writer figured that the technique was so well known there was no need to explain it. Never the less, as a new woodworker it was a stumper.

So it is with this article on making a wooden smoothing plane. In it, David Finck states:

The blade ramp must be trued to perfection: dead flat across the width and length and squared to one side with no trace of wind or twist. Any imperfections will allow the blade to pivot out of adjustment in use. Start with the front block for practice, because the only thing of importance here is to keep the ramp of the block square to a side. An experienced block-plane user will knock this off in 60 seconds. A novice may spend an hour, but taking the time here ensures the success of your plane.

To his credit he did say it might take me time. But he did not say HOW to do it. Well that's not true. He does show the picture I have posted here. First, I am working with Purple Heart - you try trimming end grain. Forget about it. Second, how does he expect to do this without getting tear out? Another forget about it. Finally, can we expect any accuracy here? He's asking me to do this by hand?!? Nope, if you want accuracy you need power tools! So I pulled out my jointer.



Now power tools have their advantages but they are also very dangerous. I wanted to true up a very small piece. I decided to place the 45degree cut face down with the point pointing at me. I then made the cut ultra small (a shaving at a time). Hooked up my shop vac. Turned on my jointer. The first few passes were great. Smooth sailing. I used the fence as a guide and pinched the piece to it with my hand. Using my other hand I passed the piece over the jointer. The problem with this technique (other then the obvious danger) became evident when the piece nose dove into the blade. HUGE gouge. BLAH!!!


To fix it I tried to control the piece more - another gouge. I wondered if I ran the piece point first if that would give me more control. I tried it once. I was completely surprised went the top half of my piece came off jammed in the jointed blade. I stared, astonished, until I thought that I better turn off the jointer. The picture to the left shows my solution. I re cut the piece at 62 degrees and made it the front piece. This piece can be lower as it is shaped - or you can add a hand hold to it. I then took the cut off (still at 45degrees) and flipped it upside down to get my length. As the Maple will now be on top - it will cause a design element I will need to balance - but at least my project is not lost!

However, now recovered, I stilled needed to true up the piece. I broke down and tried hand planning it, but there is now way - unless I had a low angel block plane (which I don't). I needed a jig for the jointer. It needed to give me accuracy and add safety. Below is my solution. I attached the piece to the sled with a nail. The sled still dove, but now it cut into the scrap. By the time the blade hit my piece it was nice and controlled. Next I wanted to true up the 62degree piece. I decided to try my desk top sander. SHA ZAM!!! With light passes and a true surface I trued this piece safety and quickly. Next time, I will try that first!

Anyways, now I'm back on track. But my feet are getting cold. Time to go in and make dinner.

Keep the sawdust flying,

Marcus

Wooden Smoothing Plane

My latest project is a wood smoothing plane (#4). (

See article here.

). The article describes the project as moderately difficult so Ithought it would be a good project over Christmas. I plan to use Purple Heart as the main wood with Maple accents.

I decided to pick this project when I received a Plane Hammer from Lee Valley for Christmas. Since you really cannot use it for anything else I figured I better go a head and make one. I had ordered the Plane Blade some time ago when I first read this article. I thought that this would be a great way to get into some planes without having to put out $200 each. (I love Lee Valley, but they are some hard on the wallet). I have since discovered that you can buy well made wood planes for about the same cost of the blade. So, this may be a project I do not repeat. Never the less I am looking forward to it.

Looks pretty straight forward... Famous last words