Wooden Smoothing Plane - My first big problem

I love it when articles explain things that are profoundly challenging in blase terms. I was once making a picture frame and the article read "Create a profile with a 7 degree slope. Use this profile to route your pegs". So I thought - easy enough. Until I had to make the 7 degree profile. Now how should I do that? I puzzled and puzzled until Len suggested I use a block plane. Eureka! However, as one who (at that time) had never used a block plane, how was I to know? I am sure the writer figured that the technique was so well known there was no need to explain it. Never the less, as a new woodworker it was a stumper.

So it is with this article on making a wooden smoothing plane. In it, David Finck states:

The blade ramp must be trued to perfection: dead flat across the width and length and squared to one side with no trace of wind or twist. Any imperfections will allow the blade to pivot out of adjustment in use. Start with the front block for practice, because the only thing of importance here is to keep the ramp of the block square to a side. An experienced block-plane user will knock this off in 60 seconds. A novice may spend an hour, but taking the time here ensures the success of your plane.

To his credit he did say it might take me time. But he did not say HOW to do it. Well that's not true. He does show the picture I have posted here. First, I am working with Purple Heart - you try trimming end grain. Forget about it. Second, how does he expect to do this without getting tear out? Another forget about it. Finally, can we expect any accuracy here? He's asking me to do this by hand?!? Nope, if you want accuracy you need power tools! So I pulled out my jointer.



Now power tools have their advantages but they are also very dangerous. I wanted to true up a very small piece. I decided to place the 45degree cut face down with the point pointing at me. I then made the cut ultra small (a shaving at a time). Hooked up my shop vac. Turned on my jointer. The first few passes were great. Smooth sailing. I used the fence as a guide and pinched the piece to it with my hand. Using my other hand I passed the piece over the jointer. The problem with this technique (other then the obvious danger) became evident when the piece nose dove into the blade. HUGE gouge. BLAH!!!


To fix it I tried to control the piece more - another gouge. I wondered if I ran the piece point first if that would give me more control. I tried it once. I was completely surprised went the top half of my piece came off jammed in the jointed blade. I stared, astonished, until I thought that I better turn off the jointer. The picture to the left shows my solution. I re cut the piece at 62 degrees and made it the front piece. This piece can be lower as it is shaped - or you can add a hand hold to it. I then took the cut off (still at 45degrees) and flipped it upside down to get my length. As the Maple will now be on top - it will cause a design element I will need to balance - but at least my project is not lost!

However, now recovered, I stilled needed to true up the piece. I broke down and tried hand planning it, but there is now way - unless I had a low angel block plane (which I don't). I needed a jig for the jointer. It needed to give me accuracy and add safety. Below is my solution. I attached the piece to the sled with a nail. The sled still dove, but now it cut into the scrap. By the time the blade hit my piece it was nice and controlled. Next I wanted to true up the 62degree piece. I decided to try my desk top sander. SHA ZAM!!! With light passes and a true surface I trued this piece safety and quickly. Next time, I will try that first!

Anyways, now I'm back on track. But my feet are getting cold. Time to go in and make dinner.

Keep the sawdust flying,

Marcus